Install Help Center

Before you do anything else, determine whether you've ordered an Advanced or Standard vinyl. Each type uses a fundamentally different adhesive system, and the installation method differs accordingly. Check your order confirmation or the label on your packaging if you're unsure.

We provide separate installation videos for each type—make sure you're watching the correct one for your material. Following the wrong guide can lead to misalignment, overstretching, or frustration that's entirely avoidable.

Temperature matters more than most people expect. We recommend a room temperature below 72°F (22°C) during installation. Heat makes vinyl more pliable—which sounds helpful, but it also makes the material easier to overstretch and causes the adhesive to become grabbier and harder to manage.

If you're in a warmer climate or don't have air conditioning, try placing your vinyl in the refrigerator for about a minute before installing. This cools the adhesive and makes the material a bit more rigid, giving you better control during placement.

Dust is the other enemy. Even a tiny particle trapped under the vinyl will show as a visible bump. Work on a clean surface, in a room with minimal airflow, and avoid wearing fuzzy clothing that sheds fibers.

If your vinyl arrived with a few wrinkles or minor creases in the material while it's still on the paper backing—don't panic. We use premium automotive-grade vinyl that is remarkably forgiving. Light to moderate crinkles will almost always disappear entirely once the skin is applied and smoothed onto your device.

If your vinyl has been severely creased or deeply folded, apply a small amount of heat from a hair dryer or heat gun to the affected area, let it cool completely, and then proceed with installation. In most cases, even these will settle out once applied.

Some of our designs use transfer tape (also called tack tape) to hold thin or delicate pieces together during installation and prevent tearing. If your design includes transfer tape, always retack it before you peel the vinyl from the backing paper.

Transfer tape can shift or loosen during shipping. Before peeling, place the sheet face-up on a clean, flat surface and firmly go over the entire surface with your squeegee. This re-bonds the tape to the vinyl so everything lifts cleanly and stays aligned.

Every skin we sell is designed in-house with a specific installation sequence in mind. Our designs include intentional stretch zones and precise tack points—specific spots on the device where you anchor the vinyl first before working outward.

These aren't arbitrary. The tack points are engineered so the material distributes evenly across the surface, and the stretch zones account for curves, tapers, and contours on your device. Skipping ahead or freestyling the order can result in misalignment or trapped air that's hard to correct.

Watch the installation video for your specific device and vinyl type, and follow the sequence exactly—especially on your first install.

When removing the vinyl from its paper backing, resist the urge to peel from one edge straight across to the other. This pulls the material in a single direction and can stretch it unevenly—especially on designs with tabs or corner coverage pieces.

Instead, peel each corner inward toward the center of the design, releasing a little at a time from each side. Lift the final corner last so the vinyl separates cleanly without distortion. We intentionally undersize our designs slightly to counteract the stretching that occurs during peeling, but careful technique ensures the best fit.

We include premium blunt-nose tweezers with your order for a reason. When you're aligning thin strips, narrow tabs, or small accent pieces, your fingertips can inadvertently stretch the vinyl and cause misalignment. Tweezers give you a far more precise grip.

Tweezers are also useful because they slide under the vinyl without fully tacking to it the way your skin does. This lets you lift, nudge, and reposition small sections with much finer control than your fingers allow. Think of them as your primary alignment tool for any piece that's smaller than about an inch wide.

You might notice that your vinyl skin doesn't extend all the way to the very edge of every cutout or device border. That's intentional—it's called the reveal, and it's a design feature, not a defect.

The reveal (typically less than 1mm) serves two important purposes. First, it provides some leeway on alignment so you don't need to be pixel-perfect during installation. Second—and more importantly—it dramatically improves the long-term adhesion of your skin.

If the vinyl were cut flush to the edge, everyday handling would create constant friction against that exposed edge. Over time, the vinyl would begin to peel up and collect dust and debris underneath. By sitting slightly inside the edge, the vinyl rests entirely on the flat surface of the device and avoids these rub and brush points entirely.

If you accidentally overstretch a thin or narrow section of vinyl, don't try to force it flat—that usually results in a single large crease that's nearly impossible to smooth out.

Instead, distribute the excess material as multiple small ripples spread across the area. Then apply a small amount of heat from a hair dryer or heat gun to gently shrink the vinyl back. Once heated, use the felted edge of your squeegee and push down perpendicular to the ripples, working from the center of the piece toward the edges. The vinyl has some give-and-take to it, and this technique can recover what seems like a ruined section.

Ripples across a larger flat surface—like a laptop lid—need a slightly different approach than small sections. The key principles are the same: distribute the ripples as evenly as possible across the affected area rather than letting them bunch up in one spot.

Once distributed, use your squeegee and work perpendicular to the direction of the ripples, pushing from the center of the device outward toward the nearest edge. This guides the excess material off the edge of the skin rather than compressing it into a crease.

Noticed a light scratch or scuff on your installed skin? Before reaching out to support, try applying some gentle heat from a hair dryer or heat gun. Our Standard vinyl is automotive-grade material with mild self-healing properties—fine surface scratches can often disappear with a brief application of heat as the top layer softens and reflows.

This works best on shallow surface scratches and minor scuffs. Deep gouges or cuts won't heal this way, but you might be surprised at what a little heat can fix.

For designs that wrap over an edge—like a laptop lid that continues onto the side—resist the temptation to fold the vinyl straight over the edge in one motion. Pulling directly from the top surface over the corner and down the side traps air right at the edge, leaving you with a visible bubble line that's difficult to remove after the fact.

Instead, start at one end of the edge and work gradually along its length, rolling a small section of vinyl over the corner at a time. Use your squeegee or thumb to press the material down and around the edge incrementally, advancing a little further along the edge with each pass. Think of it as a slow wave moving down the edge rather than a single fold.

This technique also keeps port cutouts and other edge features in proper alignment. If you fold the vinyl over the edge all at once, even slight distortion can shift the material enough that a port cutout no longer lines up with the actual port—and at that point, correcting it means lifting and restretching, which compounds the problem.